Walking in Madeira

Madeira has many things to recommend it, beautiful scenery, warm sea, reasonable prices, excellent food and wine, frequent flights, exotic flowers, hiking trails, beaches, friendly locals and year-round sub-tropical weather to name just a few.

The island also has an excellent bus service and it is possible to get around all over the island cheaply although you need to be aware that there are 4 different bus companies and they all have their individual stops.

It is also easy to hire a car in Madeira if you would like a quicker journey or want to get off the beaten track.

Madeira is a walkers paradise with over 500 hikes to choose from of various difficulties and lengths. What’s unique about these trails is that they run alongside the island’s slow-running levadas (man-made irrigation tunnels), providing awe-inspiring moments at every turn. These innovative water channels filter down from mountainous highlands into villages, towns and cities, providing not only handy navigation routes for hikers but water for cultivation, power and drinking. More impressively, they journey through some of Madeira’s wildest forests, skirting vertiginous mountains that fall steeply into the North Atlantic Ocean.

Madeira’s vast levada network spans an impressive 3,100km on an island that measures just 55km long and 22km wide. It’s thought the first levadas, which date back almost 600 years, were engineered by Portuguese settlers to provide water for drinking and agriculture (the word “levada” comes from the Portuguese verb “to carry”).

Here are a selection of hikes that are easily accessible by bus from Funchal:

Camacha to Monte – Levada da Serra do Faial

Take the 129 bus from Funchal to the cultural village of Camacha is the heart of Madeira’s arts and crafts industry, and there’s plenty of goods to admire (and buy) at the starting point of Cafe Relogio on the central square. The route mostly follows the disused Levada da Serra, before descending on a steep road to Levada dos Tornos in the Funchal suburb of Monte, high above the capital. There are kiosks and snack bars at either end and en route, which will come in handy since this walk is likely to take about 4 hours to complete. Return to Funchal by cable car or bus 20 or 21.

Ribiero Frio to Portela – Levado do Furado

Take the 56 bus from Funchal to the Restaurante Ribiero Frio. During most of the route, you will walk protected by the shadow of the Levada which can make this walk a bit cool. At first there are brief glimpses of the surrounding landscape but as you advance, you’ll find more open stretches where you’ll enjoy beautiful panoramic views. The paths at the viewpoints can be a little narrower, but they are well-guarded to ensure your safety. Also, along the route, you will pass through some tunnels, but carrying a flashlight is unnecessary. The Levada takes you to the forest ranger’s country house, where there is a picnic area. From there, it’s about 2 km to Portela down some steep paths. There is a 53 bus back to Funchal but if you don’t want to wait it is easy to get a taxi share. The walk will take about 4 hours.

Levada do Norte to Cabo Girao

Take the 96 bus from Funchal to Estreito de Camara do Lobos as far as the Levada do Norte bus stop. During the walk, for approximately 2 hours, you can enjoy the spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean, green fields, plantations, some houses and traditional buildings of Madeira. The walk ends at the viewpoint which is the second highest coastal cliff in Europe, there are toilets and a shop here and the views at the end of the walk, are just breathtaking! The number 8 bus will take you back to Funchal.