by Isabella Noble
From Lanzarote’s art vibes to Tenerife’s food scene, the islands are all grown up, with even the most remote offering stylish places to stay
When I’m dreaming of a trip to the sunny Canaries it involves swims in glinting Atlantic pools, hikes into silent palm-filled valleys, a healthy dose of the local art scene, perhaps a splash of beach yoga and somewhere irresistibly chic to stay.
In recent years, Spain’s oft-maligned Canary Islands have quietly grown up and morphed into a stylish, creative, upmarket destination. Old mansions and fincas (country estates) are being reborn as seductive boutique hotels, while interesting apartments and villas led by energetic owners with a zest for celebrating the islands’ cultural heritage are popping up. Luxurious beachfront five-star hotels are having design-forward makeovers, and even hidden cave-houses are being transformed into boho-chic holiday homes.
On the foodie side of things Michelin stars continue to arrive, particularly in Tenerife, which is home to five of the archipelago’s nine Michelin-starred restaurants. You’ll taste this culinary boom in a raft of other wonderfully imaginative kitchens too, while traditional spots continue to highlight the islands’ fabulous fresh produce, just as they have done for years. Until recently Canarian wines were little known beyond their homeland, but they are now truly blossoming.
When it comes to choosing which island to visit, it’s worth noting that different islands address different needs, and all have their own charms. Dynamic Tenerife and Gran Canaria are the grand dames, offering a wide range of activities. Fuerteventura pulls in beachy types with its silken sands, surf scene and strong gusts for wind and kitesurfing. Lanzarote is on the map for art and design lovers thanks to its wave of creative boutique hotels, as well as the venues, gardens and homes (open as tourist attractions) created by the 20th-century environmentalist and artist César Manrique. On all four larger islands, the north has a wilder, less touristy feel.
Then there are the three smaller and more remote Canaries — El Hierro, La Gomera and La Palma, linked to the bigger islands via ferry or tiny airports. All have their own beauty and make for glorious crowd-free escapes.
Whichever island you pick, rewarding hiking awaits, from misty laurel forests found on several of the islands, to the challenge of the 3,718m summit of Mount Teide on Tenerife. Or perhaps you fancy surfing, paddleboarding, diving, kitesurfing or whale-watching. Maybe pottering around the farmers’ markets is more your thing. Wherever you go there’ll be a plate of queso a la plancha (grilled local cheese) and a glass of volcanic wine waiting.
The main airports serving the Canary Islands from the UK are Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Lanzarote, La Palma and Tenerife North and South. Armas, Fred Olsen and Líneas Romero offer ferry routes between all the islands.
